Continued from part 1:
Why the grips?
My friend told me they lasted longer than the epics. They have a thicker sole, more tread, and the rollover area is less rounded.
Why the edges?
They were free. Their tread lasts the longest compared to the glove and grip. The clamp fastener is great unless/until it gets bent.
Why the epic style?
With the epic style I can fit the boot on both the fronts and the back, ie a wider range of hoof sizes and shapes. I can adjust the boot accordingly as the material stretches over the course of its life.
The gaiters are meant for a more secure fit. But, I have heard from many easyboot users that the gaiters rub the pasterns. I’d like to know if they rub the hinds and the fronts, or only the hinds?
Why no gaiters?
I wanted to reduce any chance of rubbing on the pasterns. I wanted to see if Roxy no longer scuffed the toe area of the hind boot when no gaiter was present.
I know that easycare is just about to release a glove boot that can use 5 types of gaiters. However I will still be trying to go away from using gaiters completely.
They get dirty
They rip off when you pull them on too tight
They chafe my horses hinds.
They can stretch and are not dependable for securing the boot.
Thoughts on the gloves and the epics:
The gloves are simplicity in design, but complex in fitting the hoof exactly right. The epics are complex in design, but can fit a wider range of hoof sizes.
The gloves are a great boot if fitted just right. Glue or mueller tape can be used to create perfect security. However, the glove shell stretches over time. So the boot you buy tight is loose as it gets used.
The epics are hard to get on, but they stay on a wider set of hoof sizes. I found they were just as hard/easy to get on as the gloves. And their is no chance of ripping the gaiter when putting them on, if you dont use one.
By changing the cable and backstrap size a range of fitting is possible. A gaiter that is not completely dependable is not necessary.
The back country gaiters:
They were clunky.
Thoughts on carbide tips:
Almost doubles the wear of the boot, except the toe area.
Also stresses out the tendons more.
After using them for 1000 miles of 1800 so far I have decided to no longer use them as my way to prolong boot life, opting for resoling instead.
Thoughts on other brands:
Great idea, but too many components that need to work just right to provide secure fit. The first boots I used. I was hoping they would stay on better. Only company that makes replaceable soles.
Loos good but I’m wary of the minimal material in the toe area.
Again look good.
2 main reasons for not trying either scoots or renegades.
They both use gaiters.
I can get bargain bin easy boots for less than half of what these brands cost.
Thoughts on shoes:
I have never had a shod horse.
I am wary of trusting farriers I dont know on my horses hooves.
I am wary of trusting myself nailing into my horse.
In other words, I’m afraid of potential downtime from bad shoeing.
Also, I ride barefoot some portions of some days.
My thoughts on the ideal road/travel boot
A true road/expedition/ travel boot will address the following:
Fit for the range of trim cycle
Long lasting tread from toe area to heel
No pastern chafing
Secure fit for all road/ trail and moisture conditions.
Link to resole post.
Multiple riders on long journeys by horse mostly at a walk, have recounted that the boots wear out at the toe area before the sole. My thoughts on this is that the mechanics of walking with load day in day out on pavement causes the premature toe wear.
I believe a hoof boot SPECIFICALLY made for the road would address the problem of the toe wearing out first by having more material at the toe area, more durable material at the toe area, or the ability to exchange soles that cover the toe area, as needed. That’s a strong hint I’m throwing out there guys!
In the meantime I will make due with what I’ve got, and what I can adapt.
Continued on part 3