Continued from part 1 and 2
Thoughts on the grips and edges.
After riding 3 week on the grips on pavement dirt and gravel, I would say they are better on the last two surfaces, but not on pavement. I got 350 miles out of them.
The edge sole lasts the longest out of the 3 easyboot shells I’ve tried. Glove, grip, edge. However the sole is the firmest and has the least give. It is also the heaviest of the 3 Easyboots I’ve used on the road.
My next pair, an old type epic with sneaker tread, was immediately resoled so I won’t know how that tread compares. It is flexible like the grip, yet lighter.
I have come to the conclusion that resoling is the only way to go on long trip.
Here are my first attempts at resoling.
For my first trial I used a pair of old style epic originals in size 0. Old style tread.
I used goodyear chevron sole material in 10 iron or 1/4″. It came in a 18″ by 22″ slab, enough to make 16 boots in Easyboot Epic size 0. It costed $60 including delivery. Other materials used:
Nails, metal toe guards, contact cement, string.
First attempt. Overbuilt: chevron tread is too soft. The glue doesn’t work. And the toe guard neither.
To resole per boot it costs anywhere from $1 for glue, nails and old tire material to $6 for shoe sole material, toe guards, glue and nails. It ends up being around $10 or so a month if you are reusing screws, buying nails, and recycling tire sidewalls.
As of today, we have ridden 3 weeks with the retreaded boots. I got 150 miles on the first set, and 105 so far on the second set. think I’ll get 200 on this set. I only used the chevron tread one day. it was too soft.
Here is attempt #2 at resoling. I used tire sidewall, 2 ply nylon, not steel.
3rd attempt: sidewall and vibram sole.
What I’m noticing is that there is a tendency for the tread to come off at the front first, thru toe scuffing. For my 3rd attempt, I will use nuts and bolts and a wrap around tread that I can affix on the front of the boot. I will continue to use nails around the sole.